I've been into hifi for about 20 years. It has taken a long time for my system to evolve to this level.

My first system included Magnepan Model III's, a Sota turntable, Acoustat TNP Preamp, and two Acoustat TNT-200 for biamping. At the time it was a hot system, and in someways I miss it. However the sound was never as good as it is now.

I got into the Levinson gear by chance, with a #380s, 336, 39, and Revel Studios. I decided I liked the sound, and have slowly upgraded. I like the sound of tube gear, but I prefer the slam, speed, and reliability of solid state. The Levinson sound seems to be the best of both solid state and tube gear. 'm always open to bettering my system, so if you've done any comparisons between brands, I'd be glad to hear your results.

I just built my new listening room (Summer, 2003). It has made an incredible difference. If you've spent some bucks on your system and want to take it to the next level, this is the way to go. You'll get much more bang for your dollar than by upgrading your components.

My musical tastes run the gamut from classical, ragtime (I play ragtime piano!), blues, jazz, new age, country, bluegrass, rock, and heavy metal. If it the music is recorded well, I'll listen to it.

I would sure value any opinions or suggestions you have in improving my system as I'm always trying to find just a few more notes . . .

I plan to continually upgrade and improve my system as funds allow. I'm very interested in the new digital formats, but I'm waiting for the dust to settle.

So thanks in advance for your comments, and if you live in the St. Louis area, or are traveling through let me know, you're welcome to stop by for a listen.

Good listening,


Room Details

Dimensions: 26’ × 13’  Large
Ceiling: N/A

Components Toggle details

    • The Isolated Listening Room designed and constructed by SGR
    I have discovered that the listening room is the most important component. As a result, I've listed this tweak first, before all other components. The new listening room is the key to my sound. My room is built in the basement. I based the construction on ideas from Rives Audio, ASC IsoWalls, Auralex Acoustics, plus my own experiences and knowledge gained from Audiogoners. Once the room was framed I mounted Resilient Channel (RC-1 )on the ceiling and walls. Next came layer of 5/8 drywall, then B-Quiet Extreme was placed on the drywall as per the Iso-Wall outline, then another layer of 1/2 inch greenboard drywall. Attention to each detail of the hints on the ASC Iso Wall were followed. It really slowed construction down, but the results are worth it. If I had it to over again, I'd buy their kit instead of finding alternative but similar products. The room was constucted with an audiophile's growth in mind, so their are 18 dedicated lines, wired with 10 gauge Romex type wire, with hospital grade outlets that I hope to upgrade in the next year. From the start, before any equipment was moved in, it was apparent just by listening to people talk that this room was special. One of the biggest pluses is being able to listen at any volume at any time of night and not disturbing the rest of the family. One can barely hear the system played even at high levels in adjoining parts of the basement, let alone the rest of the building. To me this is an outstanding feature!
    Layout: The speakers sit about 7' from the back wall. I sit about 13' from the speakers. There is about 4 feet behind my chair including the book shelves.
    Room dimensions: 24'x 13.5'x 6'10
    • Levinson No 31.5
    The 31.5 might be the pinnacle in Redbook transport design. It is firmly in the top 5. My unit has recently been rebuilt at HSG and provided with a all new transport and lazer assembly.
    • Levinson No-360s
    The 360s may be my ultimate DAC. It was a big upgraded from using the DAC in the #39. Replacing the power cord with a Synergisitc Research unit made a big difference. I would like to hear a #30.6 someday.
    • Levinson No 32
    I upgraded from a #380s. What a difference. It may lack the warmth in the midrange that a tube preamp provides, but more than makes up for it in dynamics and impact. Someday I intend to obtain the phono modules for it.
    • Levinson No-436 X 4 Vertically Biamped
    I replaced my ML#336 with a pair of these. They have better impact in the bass, imaging, and transparency. I recently had the opportunity to biamp my Revel Salons with another pair of these and they really made my speakers come alive. I've now purchased my second pair of 436 amps. Review to come.
    • Revel Ultima Salon
    I upgraded from the Studios to the Salons, and for a while I thought I'd made a mistake. They have been a frustrating speaker to get right. There has been much written about the Salons, both good and bad. It has been a struggle to get these babies to really sound their best. They like lots of power, biamping with 4 436 monoblocks has been the ultimate match so far. If you provide these babies with what they want, they will satisfy. Placement and source are critical. My pair if finished in Oak and Gloss Black.
    • Revel Ultima Sub 30
    I've added a pair of these babies to my system, so now it is triamped. It is much easier to place one sub than two, but once the setup is complete 2 is much better than one. By adding the subs I was able to treat my Salons as satellites and move them around to get the best imaging and midrange clarity. While the Salons were never anemic I feel I now have the authority and slam of the big boys in bass, plus with biamping the midrange and hi-frequencies have really become special.
    The new Sub 30 powered subwoofer combines prodigious very low-frequency reproduction with unparalleled in-room response capabilities. Featuring a massive 15-inch inverted dual-layer metal dome active driver and an auxiliary 15-inch inverted dual-layer metal dome acoustic radiator, the Sub 30 can deliver truly spectacular and detailed deep bass, reaching to well below the limits of human low-frequency hearing, along with the ability to deliver room-shaking sound at astonishing sound pressure levels — all with low distortion. The state-ofthe-art active driver is equipped with a sophisticated magnetic motor system that provides ultra-low distortion, obviating the need for servo control, and has an incredible 3 inches of peak-to-peak excursion capability. The built-in power amplifier boasts a phenomenal 1,000 watts of output power, with a peak reserve capability of 1,400 watts.
    • Sota Deluxe Sapphire
    My Sota has been upgraded with the acrylic matt and reflex clamp. It still sounds great. I need to upgrade the cartridge and would like to send it to SOTA for tweaking.
    • Sumiko FT-3
    This arm is equipped with the VTA adjuster. I don't know how it compares with today's arms, and I probably won't replace it.
    • Audioquest 403b
    This is a low output moving coil that held its own with the best when I orginally purchased it. I'm hoping to upgrade to the Denon 103r.
    • Acoustat Transnova Preamp
    This was my orginal preamp. I've always enjoyed its sound, especially the phono system, so I now use it as my phono preamp, and then send the signal to my #32.
    • Synergistic Research Resolution Reference X2
    I use three balanced pairs of this cable to connect the #32 to the #360s DAC. I also use Resolution Reference between amps and preamp and from the preamp to the Sub 30s through the crossover and back to the high frequency pair of 436s. This cable features pinpoint imaging and the sound is very round and full as compared to the Kaleidescope II. The bass has a much higher detail and appears to go an octave lower than the Kaleidescope II.
    • Synergistic Research Signature 10 Active
    I use 4 4'sections with active shielding to biwire and biamp my Salons.
    • Synergistic Research Resolution Reference X Active
    I use this PC to connect my 360s to the AC with a direct line.
    • Synergistic Research Reference Master Coupler X Active
    I use this cable to connect my 31.5 to a direct line.
    • Synergistic Research AC Master Coupler X Series
    I use this cable to connect my #32 with a direct line.
    • Synergistic Research AC Master Coupler Classic
    I use six of these cords, 2 for my Revel Sub 30s and 4 for my 4 436 amplifiers to the direct line balanced 30 amp circuits.
    • Synergistic Research Digital Corridor Reference
    I use this as an alternate cable to connect the #31.5 to the #360s
    • Transparent Reference Digital
    This is the digital cable I use 99% of the time.
    • Solid Steel Two 5.4 Black Equipment Stands
    These Italian made stands available from Music Direct look great and sound as well. I've placed two stands side by side so they look like a lowboy. Their sound easily rivals stuff from Sound Anchors or Billy Bags.
    • Solid Steel 5.2 Black Amp Stands
    Italian, made equipment racks. Built in Duraluminum cones for each shelf. A much better arrangement to house my 436 amps.
    • Vibrapods Models 1-5.
    I use these tweaks throughout my system. I use the Vibrapod sandwich with three eighths plate glass. I've compared this combo with Audiopoints, BDR cones and pucks, and the Mapleshade cones. Nothing has beat the Vibrapods yet. To get the most from these you have to custom tune each layout by ear using a variety of Vibrapods under each component for the best sound.
    • Vibrapod Vibracones
    Another audiophile friend and I have used Vibrapods and Vibracones for several years now with outstanding results. We've found that: 1. Make sure to experiment with different values other than quoted in the manual under your components. 2. The Vibrapod/cone combo sounds better than just the pods. 3. The Vibrapod/cone combo sounds best when making a vibrapod/cone sandwich using a piece of heavy glass (at least 3/8 or thicker) to set your components on. Go to for a description of the sandwich. 4. Vibracones sound best with our equipment (Krell, Levinson, Gryphon, Theta, Acoustat, Legacy) with the point (bearing pointing) to the component. 5. For optimum performance, place a Vibracone directly under the feet of your components, if possible beneath the screw that holds the foot to the chassis. Next, we use the piece of plate glass at least 3/8 thick (or use two pieces, it will be cheaper than 1/2 inch and sound better.)Support the glass with Vibrapod/cones in the correct configuration with points up. 6. Tune the cones/pods by ear, the factory recommendations are good, but be ready to experiment. In our systems it is easy to hear substitutions of #3 vs. #4 or #5 pods in the system. In general I like to use the minimum, one pod/cone on each corner if possible. Heavy amps will need more. 7. Tuning and placement is a pain, but I wouldn't be without them in my system. 8. I find the pod/cones deepen and round the bass, sharpen the image, while adding depth and liquidity to the system when they are tuned correctly. However, they can and do cause many of the concerns as noted above if not used correctly. 9. I've heard many misgivings concerning the use of plate glass as shelving, and having used cones with the glass before, I agree, but Vibrapods/cones work well with glass shelves but perhaps the stickiness of the cones/pods prevents the ringing that I've heard with glass using other supports. I'm not claiming that the Vibrapod/cones are the best isolation system, as I've not ever tried many of the systems mentioned above, but I do like them in my system better than many of the brass cone products I've tried. However like anything in audio, the results are system and system tuner dependent. For more info go to
    • Auralex Metro Diffusors
    These diffusors are incredible. I use them on the ceilings and sidewalls. They make my room sound much larger and taller than it actually it. They are an incredible buy and look cool too. Price is for 12.
    • Auralex LENRD Bass Traps
    These bass traps made a huge differnce the bass in my room. With each addition the bass becomes stronger and more defined. They are easy to place and use. I used 48 pieces.
    • Auralex Corner Fill Cubes
    These also absorb the bass. They are placed in the corners and the LENRDs but against them making a clean design. I used 6.
    • Auralex 2
    Mine are blue. I use 4 sheets overlapping and turned to make the diamond shape behind my speakers.
    • Argent Room Lens
    A sound investment. It is amazing how moving these things just a little bit can snap your system into focus. I built 3 new room lenses and added them two my system. They made a great improvement.
    • Home Made Room Lenses
    I have add three more room lenses to my system. A followed plans I've found in the internet and audiogon posts. I now use one pair behind the speakers, and two pair off to the side of each speaker. They were fun to make and look and sound great.
    • Home Depot Wool Rugs
    I use two of these 4' x 8'wool rugs in front of the speakers to absorb and diffuse the floor/ceiling reflection points.
    • Sam's Wholesale Oak Shelves
    I use these shelves behind the listen chair to provide storage, diffusion, and absorption.
    • Nitty Gritty Digital Disc Cleaner
    This is the long discontinued motorized version. It really can polish a disc. Its too bad that these are no longer being made, they work wonders with a CD.
    • Audioprism Quietlines
    I use about 6 of these units throughout the house to take the nasty stuff out of the lines that appliances add.
    • Electrical Power 18 Dedicated Lines
    Power is a huge factor in getting the most from your components, so I wired the room with 18 dedicated 10 guage lines. I separated each outlet into two distint lines. I will be replacing the hospital grade outlets with more exoctic units when I have time to check into these.
    • Post Cereal Raisen Men Players
    These guys strut their stuff when the systems warmed up and on a roll.
    • Cable Elevators Hand Built
    This is a tweak that you have to do! Vocalists and instruments just pop from velvety blackness. I made the platforms from MFD purchased at Home Depot and collected antique glass insulators in blue and green to mount on top of the platforms. The cables are secured by rubberbands. I built 22 in all.
    • Audio Ideas Guide Imagers II
    This tweak, designed by Andrew Marshall, are oval neoprene rings designed to fit around your speakers' tweeters. They work as advertised: They'll deepen the soundstage and control side-wall reflections while also eliminating baffle diffraction. After listening to my Salons with/without the rings, I was very impressed. Imaging from side to side and front to back became pinpoint in accuracy, depth was increased, and the Salons just became much more relaxed and musical. I'd bet they would improve most speaker systems, especially if you have a narrow room and your speakers interact with the side walls. To order:

Comments 62

I'm hoping this system is restored.


System edited: I have just added two pair of Synergistic Research Resolution Reference cables to my system. I used a 4.5 meter pair to connect the #32 to the Sub 30s and a 3 meter pair from the output of the Sub 30s back to the mid/high frequency pair of 436s. These cables replaced the Kimber Cable PBJ a friend had been loaning me until I saved the money for the cables. What a differnce! The system really came to life. The subs integrate better now than ever. The bass came up to a new level and there were marked improvements in every sonic department. I need to tell about integrating the Sub 30s to my system next.


Sgr, Thanks for the opportunity to see and hear your

You really have paid great attention to construction
detail and acoustic treatment.

Even considering the level of your equipment, I was
not prepared for how dynamic and detailed the sound was.
(Without a doubt the best percussion I've yet heard
from a system!)

Great job Sgr! Enjoy.


System edited: I added my techniques for using Vibrapods and Vibracones to my system for others to share.


The Imagers can be found at this website:
Let me know how you like them.


Great system and room,it must be nice to have your room so well treated and isolated,bet everything sounds great!!!


Hi Sgr, how can I found the imagers? Very nice system by the way. An audiophile dream. Congrats!


System edited: I had read about Imagers a while back and decided to give them a try. What a great tweak. This tweak consists of an oval, neoprene ring that is designed to surround your speakers' tweeters. They apply easily and can be removed without damaging or messing up your speakers' finish. I've listened to my system with and without the Imagers and the effects are not subtle. There is an increase in depth and even more pinpoint images front to back and side to side. I believe this tweak could improve most speaker systems, especially if you room is narrower than you'd like causing unwanted reflections. What a deal for $9.99!


I tried and when I pulled up the thread it was unavailable, I guess I better dig in AGON, but thanks for your your system!


Go to Jon Risch's website on Audio Asylum. It should be easy to find by doing a search their. Follow his directions, (there are others who have great ideas too if you search Audio Asylum.
Have fun building.
They sound great!


Please tell me where you found plans for your DIY room lense, I have a new pair of stats and need to tame my room BAD!.......Please email me if you can!


I am getting a chuckle out of your old powerline insulators holding up the cables. I used to have a few with very old dates printed in the glass, wish I kept them.



System edited: I've updated my site with comments and pictures of the new pair of Revel Ultima Sub 30s I recently added to my system.


Yes,mine is driven by CELLOs.


Yes, I did spend considerable time finding the best configuration for my room. I have mine set as follows:
Front Tweeter @ 0
LF Compensation @ 0
R Tweeter @ -3
This was best for my room.
I've tried changing these settings at times, but I always come back to these.
The rear tweeter seems the most tricky and it depends on how reflective your back wall is. It kind of works like a planar speaker in this regard. The more hard surfaces behind your speakers the less rear tweeter you'll need. I have never liked using the low frequency compensation.

You'll get more from the speaker by leaving everything set flat until you find the right placement for your Salons. Then make these adjustments.
How large is your room? Are you using the Cello equipment?
Hope this helps!




Did you spend much time on tuning the knobs of the speaker?


I am thinking about new outlets and am very interested in the "porter ports". I know others have evalutated these and liked them a great deal. Lately I've been experimenting with speaker placement where I'm finding lots of improvements. The addition of the Sub 30s has been a blessing in disguise as it has made me really evaluate the sound I was getting. The Sub 30s have been a pain to place and get to sound right. For a long time the Salons sounded better without them. However finding the "spot" for the subs has allowed me to use the Salons as satillites and work on getting the best midrange/hi frequency results along with working on imaging and depth. I've found that the Salons need a wider room than I have to get the best results, but my basement was only so large. . .
Thanks for the kind words.


Hi Lawence,
I'll be glad to to help though there are many people here on Audiogon who are more knowledgeable then me. This is where I look for answers and suggestions after talking with many friends and experimenting.


Hello SGR,

I finally brought a pair of SALON,i will post some pics later about my set up details and i have a bunch of questions hope you can advise me how can i get much of the adventages of the speaker,i trusted that you are the only one can help me in this planet.



You sir are a madman. A big, beautiful madman!

Your attention to detail of both your system/room
and the listing of your system here on Agon for all to enjoy is to be commended.

I have nowhere near the level of experience as yourself, but would like to add that you need to replace those outlets, as you have already stated. I have two Furutech FP-2G's on two dedicated 20amp circuits. While I believe these outlets "sound" good, they don't hold onto the prongs very tightly, especially on heavy aftermarket pc's. May I suggest you try a couple of Albert Porter's Porter Ports sold here on Agon? If you do, please tell us what you think.

And do keep the updates coming!


I've not that familiar with Cello. Tell me more about the components. I know Cello has a good rep. The Salons love power and you'll need the extra headroom of one massive stereo amp or monoblocks to set them free. If you give 'em what they want, they'll give back double in return and they'll appreciate each upgrade you make. Even with all I've done, I know there is still room to improve. The one thing about the Salons, is that you're buying a speaker system that you'll be able to build up for years and not worry about the newest kid on the block because these babies are as good IMHO as anything on the market.



I'm planning to get a pair of Salons,what do you think if i use with CELLO'S gear?I'm currently used Audio Suite + Performance.


Ah ! Never realised that the 32 had two outputs. Suddenly makes bi-amping more attractive. My current set-up is the tiny-tots version of your own - 39/380S/432 and Studios. Like the idea of bi-amping so a 32/2 x432 upgrade may be on the (long distant) horizon

Thanks for the response.


I use two separate interconnects from the #32 to each pair of #436 monoblocks. I was going to have Synergistic Research make me a Resolution Reference y-cable, but that would cost more than another run of Res/Ref interconnect and since my preamps has two sets of balanced outputs, it was easier to do this way. SR thought it would be better to separate the signal with two pair of interconnects for sonic reasons anyway. So that's what I did! Thanks for the comments.


Fascinating system. Interested to know how you connect your 32 to the 436s - balanced y-cable I would guess but who's ?


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